These quick tips and video guides deal with the most common queries, for more specific advice simply choose the step of the decorating process you need help with from the menu above.
This may be due to any of the following factors:
All loose material will have to be removed back to a firm edge, spot primed with the appropriate Dulux Primer, and then recoated with the appropriate product. If large areas are involved it will be best to totally strip the surface back to a bare surface and start again.
This is usually caused by contamination of the underlying surface by soluble stains.
It is important to seal the original stain by applying a coat of Polycell Stain Stop prior to re-decorating.
This is caused by painting over contaminated surfaces such as wax, oil or polish. The paint cannot adhere to the surface and draws away leaving unpainted areas. This can also be caused by contamination on the brush.
Allow the surface to dry and then rub down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper and a solution of warm water and detergent. Once rinsed and dried the area can be repainted.
Filler shows through the paint.
Make sure that all filled areas are rubbed down smooth and level. You will need to prime the filler before painting to prevent subsequent coats being absorbed more rapidly than on other areas. Use a coat of Dulux emulsion thinned 10-20% with clean water. Once this is dried you can apply a full coat of Dulux emulsion.
Using the wrong type of roller can cause foaming of a paint film. Sponge or foam rollers should be avoided with water-based paints. Long pile rollers must be wetted out properly. Foaming happens when air gets into the wet paint film to create air bubbles. When these bubbles burst craters are left on the film surface. Sometimes these craters dry to give an even film.
You will need to rub down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper using water d. The surface should then be rinsed and allowed to dry before repainting. If this is impractical due to the size of area affected the area could be horizontally lined with lining paper and then repainted.
The most likely cause of mud cracking is applying a thick, heavy, unthinned coat of paint to a textured or embossed surface such as blown vinyl wallpapers or pebbledash. This is especially true if the paint was applied by brush. Cracking can also occur when Matt paint is applied over Silk if the sheen is not removed from the silk coating.
One or two thinned coats of paints may fill in the cracks. For internal walls, a soft sheen paint is the most suitable product to use. If the affected area is over wallpaper, the best way to solve the problem is to remove the paper and start again.
This is caused usually by a wearing away of the paint film by weathering or could be evidence of salts coming out of the surface.
The affected area should be brushed down with a stiff bristle brush to remove as much powdery material as possible before applying a coat of Weathershield Exterior Stabilising Primer. If the powder is due to salts/efflorescence then the surface should be wiped with a dry cloth to exhaust the salts before coating with Dulux Trade Alkali Resisting primer to eliminate staining. It can then be re-painted in your chosen finish.
This is a common occurrence in new houses and is often the result of plaster drying out or movement of the building.
Cracks should be cut out and all dust and debris removed. The cracks should then be filled using an appropriate filler. The Polycell Polyfilla range has a filler for every size of gap. This can then be painted with your chosen finish.
Moisture is an essential element for the growth of moulds
Affected areas should be treated with Weathershield Multi-Surface Fungicidal Wash. Once rinsed and allowed to dry it can be over coated with your favourite Weathershield Masonry Paint.
Shrivelling & wrinkling of new paintwork occurs when the surface of the paint dries too quickly, therefore forming a skin before the paint underneath could dry. It is likely to be worse if a thick coat of paint is applied, especially to horizontal surfaces. It can also occur if a second coat is applied before the first one has dried.
Allow the paint to dry and harden. This may take several days, or weeks, depending on the drying conditions. When dry, rub the surface down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper, and clean with warm water with a little detergent added. Rinse the surface with clean water and allow to dry before repainting. If you are unable to wait for it to dry it would be best to scrape off the tacky paint taking it back to a sound, dry surface.
Depressions or surface blemishes in the paint film. A common cause is rain that has fallen on the surface before the film has had chance to fully dry.
When the surface is thoroughly dry the affected surface will need to be rubbed down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper. It can then be re-coated.
Loss of gloss is normally only noticed with high gloss paint & varnishes. It is caused by the settling of dew or condensation on the paint shortly after application. This is often a problem when painting out of season, or in areas of high condensation like bathrooms.
When the surface is thoroughly dry the affected surface will need to be rubbed down using 'wet and dry' abrasive paper. It can then be re-coated. This should only be done once the conditions improve or when the condensation problem is resolved.
Conventional solvent based gloss paints discolour due to the effects of heat.
There are two options to prevent it happening. Firstly, paint the radiator the same colour as the wall as yellowing is much more noticeable with white paint. Alternatively use Hammerite Quick Drying Radiator Enamel (White or Magnolia) or Radiator Enamel (White).
Wood that is exposed to UV light from the sun can become grey and friable.
This dead wood must be completely removed by rubbing it down to new sound wood. If outside, the wood can then be primed with Weathershield Exterior Preservative Primer followed by the Weathershield Undercoat & Gloss system.
Wood will rot when exposed to excessive moisture for prolonged periods.
All rotten wood must be cut out and replaced with sound timber. There is a wide range of Cuprinol and Polycell products available to prepare the area ready for painting. Smaller rotten areas of joinery may be strengthened with Cuprinol Ultra Tough Wood Hardener and then filled with Cuprinol Ultra Tough Hardener prior to painting.
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